Part I. Wave Theory

  1. Various waves in nature (1)
  2. Review of Hydrodynamics (2)
  3. Airy’s linear water wave theory (3)
  4. Various applications of the linear water wave theory (2)
  5. Prelim I (February 24)

  6. Group velocity, shoaling, and breaking waves (3)
  7. Wave reflection, refraction, and diffraction (2)
  8. Finite amplitude wave theory (1.5)
  9. Long waves (1.5)
  10. Applications (wave forces, sediment transport, etc.) (2)
  11. Prelim II (April 5)

    Part II. Random Waves and Statistics

  12. Fundamentals of probability and statistics (2)
  13. Statistics of ocean waves, and wave height distribution (2)
  14. Fourier series, time series, and spectral analysis (1)
  15. Uni- and multi-directional random seas (1)
  16. Wave prediction (1.5)
  17. Selection of design waves (1.5)

Final Exam (May 5)